12-28-09.

Egads, I've been staring at the computer for hours with this updating stuff.  My eyes are beginning to hurt.  Regardless, I decided I had better throw up what little I have for new topics in Datsun Tech that are already old on ratsun.net.  You might not have seen them there, though.  And we here at Me, Myself, and I Industries work hard for you, the random surfer, on the off chance you might actually see this site. :D

The fan is a 10" electric Flex-A-Lite fan, available from your local NAPA store.  Dual 10s would be nice, or a bigger 12, which would probably fit, but the original blade fan is only 11" and considering the electric moves a lot more as it has a built in shroud, it shouldn't have a problem cooling that.  So far it doesn't, but it's cold out.  When summer comes, we'll see how it does.  I may vent the hood anyway, which with the electric fan, won't overcool it in winter now.

The grille does fit on just fine.  Plenty of clearance.  The connector is a GM weather pak connector, also available at NAPA.  Normally I shun GM parts on the 510, but those connectors are great, and really well sealed.  Mud/water baths shouldn't be a problem.

The blue relay on the left strut tower is from mid-90s Nissans, this happened to be labeled under "Main Relay" so I'm guessing it's at least a 20 amp relay.  Don't know for sure, but so far it hasn't burned out.  I have a few spares just in case, but the 10" only pulls 6 amps anyway, so even prolonged use should be okay.  I even went so far as to disassemble the relay connector, and rewire it with bigger wires, using the existing spade connectors.  Easy to do, just solder and go.  In fact, ALL the connections on this assembly are soldered.  The only thing that should be connected with just insulated butt connectors are stereos, because they're not important to the vehicle running.

Note the other large Nissan connector between the upper radiator hose and the air cleaner.  The fan switch is an FS157, for an '86 Maxima.  They're normally mounted in the radiator and are a beefy switch.  The stock 1/4 pipe thread plug has been enlarged to accept the 16x1.5mm threads of that particular sensor.  Just about every temperature sensor I could find is that thread pitch, save some Italian application units that are 22mm.  It turns on around 200, and shuts off at 184ish, which is just about perfect.  There isn't a whole lot of material on the stock L thermostat housings.  I had enough to compress the O-ring seal, but also silicone sealed the piss out of it just to be sure.  On this type of switch it's not a problem to do that, as the switch is literally that.  A temp sensor needs to make a ground, but all this does is heat up and connect.

Here is a little clearer picture with flash.  Note all wires are protected with wiring loom.  Very inexpensive and worth the effort for long-term.

This is wired to the auxiliary fuse box (the 620 one screwed to the cowl) and is set up for constant on, so it cools even after the car's off, preventing some heatsoak.  It would be nice to get an electric water pump also to prevent all heatsoak, but I still don't want to chance that.  Electric is great, but if it goes out you're up shit creek.  Mechanical L series pumps are pretty darn bulletproof. 

Anyway, that's it.  Since these aren't the best pictures and I didn't take them throughout the installation, here is a video which shows a bit closer up:

Electric Fan Video (81 megs.)