HOSES (3) Focus Radiator (1) Mounting (2)

There are two outlets you will have to block.  The aftermarket radiator comes with rubber caps, but strangely, only one fit, so one is a common vacuum cap procured at the local auto parts store.

The other thing you might notice is there is no radiator cap on this radiator.  That's because the Fucus uses a pressure box filler dingus.  All the lines route through the engine.  Weird.  What you'll have to do is either buy a pre-fab unit from JEGS or MOROSO that fits inline with the top radiator hose.  I chose to order just the filler neck, and have Joe weld a section of 1 3/8" O.D. aluminum onto it, for exact fitment.

(EDIT: 8-18-08.  The piece Joe made for me was nice, but the filler neck I supplied had a pressed on overflow line which oozed fluid and was annoying, so I ended up getting this piece from Jegs: 555-53040.  It's an aluminum sealed with o-rings 1.25" outlet and has a 1/8 NPT overflow connection which does not leak.)

Here are the part numbers I used.  The top most expensive hose is the one I cut up to make the bottom radiator hose.  I suspect the stock 510 lower radiator hose would also work, alas, it comes up flex hose.  I believe that's what Sport Compact Car used as well.  I don't like flex hose because of the plastic tank and it seems no matter how far you bend it, it always puts pressure on the outlet, which doesn't bode well for plastic.  Lucky for me, after a half hour of hose searching, I got it right on the first time.  I should buy a lottery ticket!

The other two hoses are just 90 degree elbow pieces at random.  I would get two of the less expensive 90s, but at the time, they didn't have two of the same part number so I got one expensive one, and one cheaper one.  These are all Goodyear hoses available at Schucks/Checkers/Kragens.  And considering they were in stock, chances are fair these hoses might be around.  I didn't do an interchange though, not sure what they correspond to for intended fitment.

The two upper hoses.

Lower hose.

This is about the section I cut out.  I would have left it a tad longer on the piece sitting on the core support, but nonetheless worked fine.  Had plenty of room to secure the hose clamp.  Use the longer straight end section for the outlet to the radiator.  Any remaining pressure seeing as it's not perfectly molded will go to the water neck at the timing cover, which is significantly stronger than the plastic radiator outlet.  Funny enough, this hose section works really well, and there isn't any problem with kinking.

Upper radiator hose.  Had I paid more attention, I would have put the filler neck farther away from the distributor, but I had already cut the hose.  It works fine, just preference.  Sadly, the pre-fabbed reservoir line had to be welded out because Joe couldn't get under the aluminum with it inline. The neck is really thin aluminum.  I just tilted it at a slight angle, and that line will be run on top of the radiator then over.  No problem.

EDIT:  12-16-07.  Of course, the heater hoses were the next thing to fail on me.  The one heater hose is just a straight section, so no big deal there, the other preformed that goes behind the head is a bit more annoying.  Now, I can still order these from Nissan and off ebay, however, chances are likely that it's not going to be quick, and even more likely that the remaining hoses will eventually run out.  So I went back up to Schucks.  (They love me)  I found this hose to work almost perfectly for the factory rear preformed hose:

Remove the hose protector, and cut off the excess about here:

Then cut the hose protector to the mid-length, which will give you a perfect little leftover section that fits nicely on the long straight heater hose, in between the spark plug boot and the water fitting coming out of the block.  This hose is very pliable and fits easily without putting pressure on any of the outlets.  It's only a smidge off the factory hose.

Part number 63333 from Schucks/Checkers/Kragens.

That's it, finished!  Cost-effective simple solution that will easily cool your built L16, L18, L20, L22, L24 or whatever the heck other engine you decide to build.  Note there is a bit of space between the core support and the radiator.  Running the car around today and yesterday, at idle in cold weather (40-50 degrees) it stays right on the factory normal mark. 

(EDIT: 8-18-08. Since this install, I've installed an actual degreed temperature guage.  With twin SUs and a high compression motor, she normally runs around 165-170, and in extreme summer hotness, goes to about 190.  This is without a fan shroud, with a stock fixed 4 blade fan.)

Comments, questions?  Feel free to drop me a line.